"It used to be hydroponics was just a nod, nod, wink, wink, word for pot growing. Now it is accepted by consumers as a preferred method of growing high-quality food."
~ Michael R. Christian, Founder of American Hydroponics
Introduction
When I started my career in agricultural research and development, I was more interested in the environmental and sustainability aspects of what food and beverage producers were doing at first. Biofiltration and clean water were essential to my research, as I wrote “Farming In The Cloud” in 2013. After years of working in food sustainability, I focused on urban farming and hydroponics. Could it be done? What were all the restaurants doing? How about the new urban farmers? Where were they working on projects in cities around the globe? Were large animal farms building those applications to sustain themselves when meat or dairy prices drop out? I am curious as to why we are going toward water-based farming.
My first thoughts were geared toward the aspects of taste because if it didn’t taste good, who would eat it? Then came the research around manufacturers of towers, homemade gadgets to make the water flow like a fountain, and of course, there is aeration. The plants need a natural habitat to grow in and produce good food. How about the concept of feedstock? What will I feed these plants to make them grow? And how about selecting vegetables and herbs? What will taste good on a small plate? What I discovered was an age-old system where people all over the world were growing fresh vegetables from the outer reaches of The Gates of Arctic National Park near Anuktuvik Pass to places like Bell Book & Candle and Whole Foods Stores in the heart of New York City. There seemed to be a growing market for water-based vegetables and herbs under our noses.
How Do You Set Up a Hydroponics System?
After a few months of research, I was invited to a forum where I could spend time building a system to test and see if it worked. Still, I knew from the outset it would only be temporary as we were moving from the West Coast to the Southeast later that following year. I set out to design and build my systems to see if I could grow and sustain a large volume in 3-4 growing cycles, which lasted 60-100 days. I built the targets at an achievable rate, ensuring I could grow enough product to feed 50 people at a potluck. Yes, it may seem like a joke, but it was essential for me to make sure quality trumped quantity with this first harvest. Like any dedicated researcher, it was up to me to be diligent about flavor profiles and recipes. I teamed up with a few professional chefs, and we all agreed that building a salad with Arugula, Bib Lettuce, Dill, Chives, Beets, and Heirloom Flowers would be the best idea. Adding a vinaigrette to complement the beautiful small plate for a party was a great idea! I even selected a good white wine and beer for those seeking boozy bevs for their tables. There are many 0% ABV cocktails too!
What Do You Need To Know?
The research was like stumbling through the dark with no slippers in the middle of the night during a lightning storm. I stubbed my toe at least a dozen times before I got up from behind the desk and went to the local hydroponics store for some advice. I walked in and was greeted by a twenty-something working part-time behind the counter, and he knew I was clearly out of place. The owner asked me for my “grower's license,” well, I was not that kind of grower, for sure. He was dressed like a surfer, wearing Billabong, Reef, and Rip Curl branding from head to toe. I told him that I missed the graduate class on hydroponic system development and needed a little direction. We both laughed and began my learning journey toward growing the ingredients to that amazing salad.
Three hours later, I had materials, a credit card slip eight miles long, and advice on veggie feedstock to help me with a more earthen flavor profile. I hit the jackpot, and he made his sales goals that day, maybe even the month. It was time to test my skills, so I went back to the lab with no instructions other than mere notes on a legal pad, and so I began to build the hydroponic systems and install the aeration pumps. Leveraging Google and YouTube where possible. I considered it a success to have built 12 towers and tested all the pumps that day. The cords were all plugged into surge protectors. As I looked around the lab, I counted at least a dozen OSHA violations and knew I was far from prime time.
My next task was to dechlorinate the water and set up the seed station to begin planting. I bought heirloom and organic seeds to complement the sustainability and organics project. It was important to me and others we focus on the aspects of taste, heritage, and a legacy recipe—a Slow Food Movement project at its best. Using heirloom seeds where possible to bring history to the table.
Pulling out Rockwool inserts, I carefully tweezed a pinch of seed into a well-fertilized and saturated vessel that would withstand the test of continuously flowing water & hydroponic grow lights on a timer. Not to mention using those same tweezers to pull Rockwool from my fingertips later that day.
The lights came from a friend in Palm Desert, where he managed a nursery using solar to power his hydroponics systems. As I worked on this project, I received a call from a producer near Denver letting me know there was a hydroponics installation going up - attempting hydroponic hops on the Eastern Slope. The industry began to move, and I was officially part of a movement. Still trying to figure out where I stood in all of it, but I had eyes on successfully making that salad for a group of 50 in 100 days or less.
Urban Farming - Who’s Growing?
I planted the seeds, learned how to use the lighting, and saw a glimmer of hope for my seedlings. I invited the chefs back for a viewing and update and told them that beets must be sourced from a local farm supplier because they wouldn’t make the schedule. I needed the right setup for the system, and my credit card could not afford another investment in pumps and PVC.
Diligently fostering growth while managing my newly built urban farm, I researched manufacturers of larger-scale systems and came up with some incredible data to share. I searched on hydroponic growers, and many start-ups came to the top of my Google search function. Kimbal Musk, Elon Musk’s brother, is the founder and partner of Square Roots, based out of New York City. They run a series 365 Day farms throughout the city using shipping containers and proprietary farm management software. It looks like they are setting up operations across the flyover states too!
Up in Delaware, Doug Wood and Jomelle Bowen of 302 Aquaponics in Dover built up a sophisticated Aquaponics business. They offer tours and consultation services to the community, investing in creating a successful organization. They use the waste byproduct from the fish to feed the produce. They actively monitor and manage pH and aeration in the systems. Make sure your state will allow you to raise farm fresh Tilapia. Some states consider it an invasive species and illegal to grow in any habitat.
Of course, there is Farm.One, located at 625 Bergen Street in Brooklyn, NY. They are a membership-based hydroponic farm providing herb flowers and Michelin-level produce. Growing over 100 varietals with distinct culinary flavors. They are accepting memberships and will deliver direct to your door. They also offer herb-infused beverages, offered online, and you can pick-up at their store!
What Plants Are Grown in a Hydroponic Garden?
Back at the lab, once my greens for the salad were growing and flavor profiles were where the chefs wanted them - I began testing which products could grow in my environment using the left parts from 10 Tower Gardens. It was like a Pick n Pull situation, and I managed to build a few fresh towers off the bones in the yard. A little history; Tower Gardens, founded by Juice Plus, were initially designed and manufactured for the Epcot Center exhibits. There were over 20 of these towers left in a corner at my lab. I decided to break them down and rebuild them for a test site. They came as a package, integrated with lighting and powerful pump systems. Rooftop gardens and greenhouses use them everywhere in the United States. Hobby farmers and schools love to showcase these kits too.
I bought some sponges and Dawn dish liquid because it's safe and easy to clean plant residue. I wore Xtra Tough boots in a large garage lab, feeling like a car wash attendant as I scrubbed down and rinsed each tower. These units come as a kit; break down and wash them after every growth cycle. I found myself having to scrub, with a wire brush, the residual salts left behind by the feedstock and soon found that the pumps would be better off protected inside mesh bags to avoid clogging and motor burnout. I think it’s true regarding all products - scrub the salts after every harvest. Otherwise, I had the best yields from the Towers and still did well-growing cucumbers in floating beds and lava rock media.
Setting up a seed planting station with all the right media and tools is essential. Wear gloves when using Rockwool, and buy more seeds than you might need, because sometimes the seedlings don’t sprout. Modern lighting is key to plant development, and timer management software is something you will have to consider when growing more than one unit at a time.
What’s On The Menu?
The goal of any company is to set vital revenue goals and grow profit margins successfully. The farmer must create a menu profile and carefully plan what works. pH application management and de-chlorinating the water is important to flavor. Pick menus for the food you grow because it’s essential to select a variety of food that makes sense to eat or sell if that is your intent.
Start with Lettuce and micro greens, and build flavor profiles. This is a fantastic opportunity to grow flavorful and tender greens, especially from Baker Creek Heirloom. Plant tomatoes and strawberries, and give them enough room because you will yield dozens of berries and heirlooms for your kitchen. Bell Book & Candle’s rooftop garden is chockful of chives, cucumbers, melons, herbs, and squash. Basil, a subtle peppery herb, is grown in bundles for the restaurant. Tomatillos are used in Latin American sauces and salsas - they grow well outdoors and indoors in New York City.
It’s not just about making salads, be enterprising and think of rustic sauce growing those famous San Marzano’s. Draping them down the tower, with plenty of sunshine outdoors. If growing indoors, program the lighting based on the specs of a hot summer day to gain full flavor.
What’s Next?
I am passionate about hydroponic growing, not only as a solution for Michelin-level restaurants but for home gardeners with limited space too. I aim to build a list of hydroponic and aeroponic growers throughout the United States and Canada. Each month, I will feature a commercial grower, their distribution, and the products offered. Keep an eye out for the next level. Watch for small plate recipes paired with wine and microbrews near you! ⧭
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